HARMONIE IM GLAS
HARMONY IN A GLASS
High-proof spirits, philosophy, precision and a secret ingredient called Japan: at the Mizu Bar, Patrick Metzger serves East-West balanced cocktails.
When Patrick Metzger mixes a cocktail behind the counter of the Mizu Bar, the process can resemble a scientific experiment. Alongside high-proof spirits, his creations also contain a touch of alchemy, a pinch of entertainment and precisely applied technique. The subdued lighting makes his face glow mysteriously as he directs smoke into a glass dome arched over a whisky tumbler. Through smoking, he succeeds in enriching a classic Old Fashioned with an extraordinary nuance.
At the Mizu Bar, everything revolves around a Japanese methodology. Following the rules of mixology, whose roots lie in the traditional tea ceremonies of the 16th century, he uses the finest seasonal ingredients and tools to “create cocktails for the moment”. The feeling of spring, for example, is captured in a cherry blossom cordial that tastes both floral and almond-like. Patrick Metzger hand-picked the blossoms, including their stems, in the Bachmair Weissach garden himself, and finds that the result pairs beautifully with a sparkling sake.
Magnolia blossoms from the hotel’s own garden form the basis for a vodka creation named Magnolia. Once the maceration has been used up, the drink will no longer exist in this form – in keeping with the Japanese concept of mono no aware. This mindfulness, which encourages people to be aware of the transience of life while at the same time appreciating its beauty, takes on both form and flavour at the Mizu Bar.
“I am fascinated by the unconditional dedication with which Japanese artisans devote themselves to their craft,” says Korbinian Kohler. On several trips, the Hotelier of the Year explored Tokyo’s gastronomy and bar scene and decided to establish a bar in this very sense of perfection at his flagship hotel, Bachmair Weissach.
At first, he was not even aware of how congenially the Far Eastern drinks concept would round off his ambitious hotel programme – while also incorporating history. In fact, the Japanese Cocktail is one of the oldest in the world; it was invented 30 years before the silent film.
Its creation is owed to the arrival of the first Japanese delegation in New York in 1860. The diplomats brought the bar mania – in which Emperor Meiji also took an interest – back home with them. While Prohibition nipped the young trend in the bud in the United States, the perfect making of cocktails became an obsession in Ginza, one that continues to this day, found its way back to the West and ushered in the renaissance of the American bar scene in the early 2000s.
“Nowhere else does one find such extreme thinking about the importance of technique,” says Patrick Metzger, who, as the son of restaurateurs, has been familiar with the profession since childhood.
The fact that his Eastern-inspired recipes genuinely taste different from their Western counterparts is due not only to his botanical extracts, but also to the Japanese spirits he uses. In recent years, not only Japanese gins and vodkas, but above all Japanese whiskies have made a name for themselves, suddenly being mentioned in the same breath as those from Scotland or the whiskeys of America.
Awards and prizes at renowned competitions followed, and in 2007 both Suntory and Nikka were able to leave the competition behind. Nikka Whisky Taketsuru Pure Malt 21 Years Old won in the category “World’s Best Blended Malt”. Suntory impressed in the category “World’s Best Blended”.
The reason for their success lies – once again – in the perfectionism of the Japanese. Alongside outstanding single malts, they often produce blends, because their flavour can be controlled even more precisely during production. Unlike in Ireland or Scotland, the whisky varieties and styles used for the blends always come from the producers’ own distilleries, creating greater harmony in the final result.
The whisky casks made from Mizunara oak, preferred in Japan, impart an aroma with a hint of coconut. Gin produced there can recall sakura – Japanese cherry blossom – hinoki, Japanese cypress, sansho pepper or sencha tea.
In order to contribute a sense of local soul and Tegernsee aromas as well, Patrick Metzger has created a new Bachmair Weissach herb garden. Once the first harvest has been processed, he will begin experimenting – for now, he reveals no more.
“Every spirit reacts differently to additions; recipes have to be adjusted again and again. The perfect drink only comes into being when, in the end, everything is in harmony.”
KATHARINA HESEDENZ