At the shore of Lake Tegernsee, author Katharina Hesedenz experiences consciousness-expanding luxury, philosophical perfection and great blue.

The apartment lies directly by the water, with views in two directions; through open windows, fresh air and a feeling of elation drift in. Outside, white boats glide across the lake; inside, English wallpapers pick up the ship motif. In my Hästens bed, I lie as if on clouds and enjoy the feeling of life in a house by the lake. The song of the same name by Peter Fox has always been my anthem; now, at last, the dream comes true at Clubhaus Bachmair Weissach.

The interior is luxurious yet understated – and whatever one needs manifests itself immediately, for making wishes come true is part of the concept.

Like the hedonists of antiquity, this holiday residence, comprising three suites and one penthouse, understands the principle of happiness as the basis of all thought and action. An important component of this is ataraxia, peace of mind. The German experimental physicist Georg Christoph Lichtenberg wrote in the 18th century: “I know from undeniable experience that dreams lead to self-knowledge” – and even today, scientists find that those who strive for pleasure, enjoyment and happiness are acting in a thoroughly philosophical way.

Happiness in nature was explored, for example, by a 2013 study that asked 20,000 smartphone users from 18 countries to record their well-being and immediate surroundings at random intervals. I recreate the experiment under the current conditions and make my way to the terrace of the Clubhaus. The self-experiment shows that I would give the brunch there, in good weather, ten out of ten points; the guests around me, sipping late cappuccinos or early rosés, probably would too. Their voices sound content, their gazes drift dreamily into the distance.

Collectively, we seem to be approaching the state described by the study as Blue Mind. Anyone who has ever sat by a lake or the sea with closed eyes, listening to the waves, knows it.

The term Blue Mind stands for the fact that stress falls away from us near water, that our breathing flows more calmly and our thoughts wander more freely – in my case, towards the next meal. On the Clubhaus menu are Lebanese mezze or aubergines grilled over an open fire, refined with spices whose names melt on the tongue as soon as one reads them: harissa, tahini, za’atar, baharat, pul biber tali, dukkah, pomegranate, ras el hanout ...

While my gaze glides across the water towards Rottach-Egern or Bad Wiessee, my palate imagines itself in Tel Aviv or Marrakech. Cosmopolitanism and love of home can be found there too; the more beautiful landscape is here.

People like to spend time near water because it has an inherently calming effect, says Sanam Hafeez, a neuropsychologist in New York City and faculty member at Columbia University. Bodies of water have something dreamlike about them, much like clouds, and allow us to imagine boundless possibilities. The mere sight of them makes our mind become calm and peaceful.

It apparently also brings physical benefits. Living near water, whether the ocean or a small lake in the garden, means more than simply spending time in pleasant surroundings, explains Vinay Saranga, psychiatrist and founder of Saranga Comprehensive Psychiatry in North Carolina. It can lower blood pressure, reduce stress, promote relaxation, improve creativity and evoke a general sense of elation. Even the sight of an empty aquarium filled with water has been proven to have a positive psychological effect. For me, even a large glass of champagne works.

According to the happiness study, forest bathing ranks second; green is almost – but only almost – as powerful as blue. The perfect combination of both is offered by the Alte Sommerweg, which begins not far from the Clubhaus and whose serpentine paths wind along the wooded slope from Tegernsee station up to the Neureuth Alm.

The well-known mountain inn, situated 1,264 metres above sea level, attracts visitors with a large sun terrace, 180-degree lake views, Bavarian cuisine and a richly stocked cake counter. Gravity takes care of the way back down.

Unlike many other Upper Bavarian lakes, Lake Tegernsee is freely accessible almost everywhere. In the town of the same name, the lakeside route leads sometimes across land, sometimes across footbridges, past cafés, beer gardens, ice cream parlours, boutiques and an astonishing sauna boat complete with lounge area.

While I consider whether I feel so at ease because my body is saying “Mama!” to the lake – since we come from water and consist of 85 percent water as infants and up to 70 percent as adults – the day draws to a close, and the sunset pulls out every register of colour.

In a TED Talk a few years ago, marine biologist Wallace J. Nichols expressed the wish that people who are downcast or anxious should go near water. “I want it to become common knowledge that it is good to sit quietly by the water. I want parents and teachers to pass this on to young people as well ... and tell them: if you are having a bad day, go to the water, and soon you will feel better.”

He would surely like the Clubhaus.

KATHARINA HESEDENZ